Yoga, house hunting, and construction

I resolved to keep a blog during the upcoming nine months of Fulbright research in Delhi, but have had trouble finding time to write even the first post. Life in Delhi is bustling and chock-full of new people to meet and logistics to figure out. Moving to a completely new place and culture means that arranging the details of daily living requires careful consideration, consultation, and often what seems like endless waiting.

After two days of Fulbright orientation lectures on health, safety, and grant administration (see picture from a dinner event), the five of us Fulbrighters who will be living in Delhi spent the rest of our first week in the city hunting for an apartment. Fulbright hired two young guys, Harsh and Vikas, to take us around and show us the ropes. We trooped around the neighborhoods of Delhi for three days until we finally settled on a four-bedroom apartment to house the five of us. The apartment is filled with light, a five-minute walk from the main market, and right across from a temple (see picture of the front of the temple). Now, we’re spending absurd amounts of time and rupees searching the stuffy, cramped stalls in the market for all those dull house supplies like dishes, frying pan, waste basket, and forks that we usually don’t think about much but are easy to miss when you don’t know where to find them.

Delhi feels like it’s being simultaneously torn down and built up in preparation for October’s Commonwealth Games--or maybe I’m naïve to think that this isn’t a constant state of affairs! Dust is everywhere, and it’s hard to walk anywhere without stepping over gaping half-dug holes or weaving through construction sites. Many of the migrant workers and their families are from Rajasthan, so the women wear the most brightly colored saris I’ve ever seen. They live in makeshift tents by the side of the road and the vibrant cloth stands out astonishingly amidst the dirt.

The monsoon hasn’t been as bad as I thought it would be, but I did have a drenching walk to the Fulbright office one morning. I don’t understand how all the women can walk around in sandals all the time without getting worms and cuts. At the moment, I’m only risking it when tennis shoes just aren’t appropriate.

And best of all, despite the occasional flood and construction muck, I’ve felt incredibly welcomed here in Delhi. It’s been exhilarating meet my research mentors, and to connect with friends of friends who generously offer assistance with all kinds of things. Many thanks to all who have connected me with what is fast becoming a second family here in Delhi. There are also great conversations to look forward to in the kitchen and living room at home: Two of the Fulbrighters I’m living with are investigating rural renewable energy, another is researching waste management, and the fourth is studying the self-care practices of widowed Indian women. We have our housewarming tonight, and I’m looking forward to inviting many more guests into our new home during the next nine months.

I’m just getting settled in to a rhythm of daily living and meeting with people for my research. Our landlady and her son have been taking us to the free morning yoga classes on the first floor of the temple. Surprisingly, the rest of the folks doing yoga didn’t bat an eye when we walked in, and one of the teachers even switched from Hindi to English for part of the lesson for our benefit. One of my housemates and I had our first Hindi lesson last night. I’ve been practicing aloud along with my Hindi tapes as I handwash my clothes and get organized. And, of course, I’ve been starting to explore the local fruit, vegetable, and supermarket scene.